Malaysian farmers' efforts to enhance Musang King durians' sweetness for Chinese market stir controversy

Durian vendors wait for customers in Kuala Lumpur, Monday, Aug. 19, 2024. Photo by AP

According to The Star, Datuk Lawrence Ting Siew Haw, president of the Federation of Malaysian Fruit Farmers Association, detailed that the distinctive taste of Malaysian Musang King durians—naturally sweet with a slightly bitter aftertaste—is shaped by the country's climate and soil conditions. This sets them apart from the sweet durians produced in Thailand.

However, Lee Pit Kheong, president of the Pahang Agriculture and Ecotourism Association, noted that this distinct flavor often surprises first-time tasters from China and Taiwan, who sometimes mistake the fruit’s bitterness for spoilage.

Thus, durian orchard owner Stephen Chow, who has over 30 years of experience, noted that exporters have been adapting their offerings to suit the sweetness preferences of different international markets, though there has been no direct request to reduce bitterness in the fruit.

"If the market preference in different countries leans towards sweeter durians, then the durians with higher sweetness will be exported there," he said.

As a result, some farmers are adjusting the durian's flavor to appeal more to Chinese consumers.

According to the South China Morning Post, Dr. Zulhazmi Sayuti from the Horticulture Research Center at the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute explained that targeting compounds like saponins, which contribute to durians' bitterness, is achievable through genetic engineering.

"The feasibility has been shown in other crops, however, identifying the exact genes and ensuring other fruit traits are not compromised presents a challenge," he said.

However, this flavor modification has sparked concerns among experts and durian enthusiasts, who believe that it undermines the unique qualities of the Musang King.

Datuk Anna Teo, general secretary of the Durian Manufacturer Association, has raised concerns that many Musang King durians currently on the market exhibit "diluted color and aroma." She stressed that while cultivation methods have evolved, maintaining fruit quality should take precedence over merely increasing sweetness.

Sayuti also emphasized that any genetic changes would require thorough regulatory and ethical scrutiny and extensive testing before approval.

"Malaysia maintains a strict genetically modified organism policy, ensuring safety while fostering scientific and biotechnological advancements," he said.

Malaysia began exporting frozen durians to China in 2011 and gained approval to export whole frozen durians in 2018. Since last month, fresh durians have also been exported from Malaysia to China, with Chow noting that exported Musang King durians must meet specific standards, such as having plump flesh and five distinct segments.

Abdul Rashid Bahri, director-general of the Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority, emphasized that the Musang King targets the upscale market, motivating more farmers to grow this lucrative variety.