Roaring HCMC food scene beckons Michelin chefs

"I have traveled to HCMC many times," Singaporean two-star Michelin chef Kirk Westaway says.

"This city fascinates me with its diverse culinary culture and the constant innovation in its food and beverage market."

Westaway and his team launched a British-style restaurant in District 1 in early November after recceing the market for 18 months.

Chef Kirk Westaway in the kitchen of his new restaurant that opened in Ho Chi Minh City in early November 2024. Photo by VnExpress/Tran Quynh

Westaway began his culinary career in Asia in 2015 at Singaporean restaurant JAAN.

Within a year JAAN earned its first Michelin star. In 2019 the restaurant added a second star, a distinction it has maintained ever since.

Westaway is the executive chef at both his Singaporean and HCMC restaurants.

Since Michelin's entry into Vietnam, HCMC’s F&B market has garnered increasing attention from international chefs, he says.

"Michelin has been in Vietnam for over a year, and I believe we will see more prominent international chefs flocking to the country."

Chef Sam Aisbett of Akuna, a one Michelin star restaurant, also recognizes HCMC's potential.

Before moving to Vietnam, he had found success in the Australia and Singapore.

In 2018, at the peak of his career, Aisbett made a bold decision to leave Singapore and relocate to HCMC.

Chef Sam Aisbett in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo courtesy of Sam Aisbett

Calling Vietnam his second home, he draws inspiration from local ingredients, spices and herbs while making his dishes.

In July 2023 he had opened Akuna restaurant in HCMC.

Within a year the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star.

Philippe Le Bourhis, general director of Hôtel des Arts Saigon - MGallery Collection, says HCMC is becoming a magnet for star chefs due to its vibrant culinary culture, welcoming environment for foreigners and rapid growth of its hospitality industry.

Diners in the city, both locals and tourists, are becoming more sophisticated in their culinary preferences, and with options ranging from traditional eateries to fine dining establishments, its F&B market fosters competition and innovation across all segments, he says.

"The presence of international Michelin chefs in HCMC has elevated the city’s culinary standards, introducing new benchmarks for quality, creativity, and service."

Local chefs are also inspired to innovate and hone their skills, raising the overall quality of the city's culinary scene, he says.

A salad created by Michelin-starred chef Kirk Westaway, using Vietnamese local ingredients such as basil and cherry tomatoes. Photo by VnExpress/Tran Quynh

Vietnam has seven Michelin-starred restaurants, two of them led by locals, Sam Tran at Gia Restaurant and Mai Anh at Tam Vi Restaurant, both in Hanoi.

Compared to neighboring countries like Singapore or Thailand, Vietnam is just embarking on its Michelin journey, which means there is significant room for growth, insiders say.

Singapore leads Southeast Asia with 51 Michelin-starred restaurants followed by Thailand with 35.

"I foresee Michelin expanding to other promising cities in Vietnam, such as Phu Quoc and Nha Trang, drawing even more international chefs," Le Bourhis says.

According to a report by iPOS.vn, Vietnam’s F&B market is on the rise, with its value projected to grow by 11% in 2024 to over VND655 trillion.

HCMC remains the country’s leading international tourist destination, attracting six million foreign visitors this year, a 20% increase year-on-year.

"With the continued growth of its hospitality, tourism and culinary industries, HCMC has the potential to become Southeast Asia's premier culinary destination," Le Bourhis adds.

In June HCMC ranked fourth in a list of the world's 20 best cities for foodies published by British travel magazine Time Out, ahead of Asian hotspots like Bangkok, Beijing, Kuala Lumpur, Mumbai, and Dubai.