Vietnamese delights cast spell on American chef

He reminisces about his visit as akin to stepping into an entirely new world. The traffic, the people, the cuisine and the culture all stood in bold contrast to places he had previously traveled.

"I find solace in sitting on a plastic chair, savoring meals that cost just a few thousand to tens of thousands of dong, in the narrow lanes of Ho Chi Minh City," said Chad, 36, from the U.S.

Chad Kubanoff poses with a model of a giant bowl of pho at the Pho Festival in Nam Dinh Province in northern Vietnam, December 2022. Photo courtesy of Chad Kubanoff

Dishes like pho, hu tieu (pork and seafood noodle soup), and banh xeo (crispy pancakes) intrigued him, leading him to extend his stay.

His first attempt at Vietnamese cooking resulted in a banh xeo filled with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts. Since then, some of his best Vietnamese cooking has ended up materializing in the form of banh xeo, with crisp, golden exteriors, fragrant fillings, and medleys of pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts as fillings.

Among the many other Vietnamese dishes he fell in love with, bun bo (beef noodle soup) stood out. Its captivating flavor, with tender vermicelli in rich broth and aromatic herbs, brought him pure joy with each bite. As a chef, Chad's expert taste buds assessed each part of the noodle dish. However, due to his limited knowledge of Vietnamese, he ventured on his culinary journey alone, often turning to YouTube for help.

Chad then took a bold step by seeking employment as a chef at a Vietnamese restaurant catering to foreign patrons. Despite lacking experience in Vietnamese cuisine, he used his observations and memories to create his own versions.

To make the bases for his meals, Chad watched YouTube recipe videos and sought guidance from Thuy Kubanoff, his then-girlfriend and now wife, on ingredient selection.

Tackling banh cuon (steamed rice rolls) proved a challenge for Chad, as he could not make rolls perfectly. After hours in the kitchen, he succeeded, confidently rolling the rice sheets. Even perfecting the fish sauce was challenging, requiring multiple adjustments of vinegar and sugar for the right flavor.

Among his attempts, bun bo posed the biggest challenge. Despite seeking advice from cooking channels, Chad struggled to capture its authentic taste. Research showed a key tip: adding hot water, not cold, for the broth brings out bone sweetness. Achieving the right balance of fermented fish sauce and sugar was also vital for the flavorful noodles.

"Vietnamese cuisine appears simple, yet it embodies meticulousness and timing to yield its flavors. It's an art form," the American chef said.

Chad Kubanoff visits a market in Ho Chi Minh City in July 2023. Photo courtesy of Chad Kubanoff

After mastering numerous dishes, Chad left his job to explore Vietnam's culinary landscape alongside his girlfriend. Their mission was to relish the diverse flavors of the country. Chad recorded his culinary adventures, noting them in a journal or on his phone for future reference.

During a rainy night in Quang Ngai Province, Chad stumbled upon a restaurant that was the sole establishment open at the time. The Quang-style noodles he tasted left an unforgettable impression. The rich broth and firm yet tender noodles captivated him, reinforcing the idea that culinary delights awaited discovery throughout Vietnam, whether in roadside stalls or hidden corners.

Inspired by his experiences, Chad decided to start a travel company specializing in motorbike tours, giving foreign visitors a chance to enjoy the street food he had grown fond of in Saigon.

In 2013, Chad, his wife, and children returned to the U.S. They opened a Vietnamese street food restaurant, offering dishes like bun bo, pho, bo la lot (beef wrapped in betel leaves), and bun thit nuong (grilled pork and vermicelli). Chad went to great lengths to obtain genuine ingredients, even making trips for authentic fish sauce, shrimp paste, and herbs. To maintain the true Vietnamese flavors, he chose to leave out dishes if the essential ingredients were unavailable.

A decade in the U.S. had not dulled Chad's yearning for Vietnam.

His wife, Thuy, noted that whenever Vietnam was mentioned, "his eyes would light up, as if reuniting with a long-lost loved one." In 2022, as the grip of the Covid-19 pandemic loosened, the couple seized the opportunity to return to Vietnam.

"During the two-year pandemic, I felt like my life was fleeting. Now was the moment to come back to this country and pursue my passion," Chad said.

Chad's second homecoming marked a new chapter in his culinary journey, transforming him into a culinary content creator, reviewing street eateries and making Vietnamese dishes to share with a global audience. On his social media platform with over 25 million followers, Chad showcased his culinary expertise, featuring dishes like stuffed bitter gourd, braised meat with fermented fish sauce, watercress soup, stir-fried glass noodle with crab, and banh mi with pate.

In the past year, Chad explored Saigon and its surroundings, documenting street food treasures and experimenting with classic Vietnamese recipes. He has crafted nearly 700 dishes, blending traditional methods with creative approaches. He tackles complex recipes like pork intestine porridge, blood pudding, and strives to understand Vietnamese techniques for fish sauce, shrimp paste, and fermented shrimp. He's also exploring traditional creations like sticky rice cake banh chung, moon cake, and spring rolls.

His fervor for Vietnamese cuisine has influenced all his cooking styles. With each dish he prepares, he will add on Vietnamese ingredients to complement the dish. For instance, even in Italian dishes, he adds pickled chili, lime juice, and fish sauce.

"Vietnam has permanently altered my approach to cooking," Chad said.

Chad Kubanoff cooks at his home in Ho Chi Minh City, early 2023. Photo courtesy of Chad Kubanoff

Chad's passion for new fusion has earned him affection from both foreigners and overseas Vietnamese. Many viewers expressed how his videos evoke homesickness, especially among young individuals born in the U.S. who still feel tied to Vietnamese culture and take pride in their heritage.

Chad is learning Vietnamese to comprehend local life and cooking better. He now plans to create videos in Vietnamese when he's fluent in the language.