Saigon mornings offer snail sensations

It has been a morning delight in Saigon for the past 25 years.

At the crack of 9 o'clock each day, Phuong makes her way to Alley No.171 on Co Bac Street in District 1 to set up her snail stall. It's a unique offering that isn't commonly found as a morning dish in Saigon.

Phuong's daily routine begins at 12 a.m. when she travels to the Binh Dien seafood wholesale market in District 8 to handpick the snails for the following day's sales. "After returning home, I clean and prepare everything until 8 a.m., and then I start selling my goods. If I get too tired to stay up late at night, I have to halt my sales," Phuong said.

Phuong prepares dishes for her guests at an alley on Co Bac Street in District 1, HCMC. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

As the clock strikes 9 a.m., the sizzling sounds of stir-frying and grilling snails, along with the aroma of charcoal, waft through the alley. The shop has remained unchanged since it opened, featuring a cart loaded with approximately 13-15 baskets of snails, both large and small. A charcoal stove and two mini gas stoves are used to prepare the snails, while 13 plastic tables are neatly arranged along the alley, providing seating for guests.

By 10 a.m., the tables begin to fill up with patrons. A team of 3-4 helpers assists Phuong in taking orders, processing food, carrying dishes, and cleaning tables. Due to the limited seating in the small alley, half of the customers opt for takeaway. The snails are carefully packed in styrofoam boxes, accompanied by sauces and fresh herbs. Diners can enjoy the snails with a sweet fish sauce or salt with kumquat juice and chili. Each snail dish costs between VND30,000 to 35,000 ($1.27 to $1.48).

Phuong's snail shop starts getting busy at 10 a.m. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Explaining why she only sells in the morning, Phuong said that when she first opened the shop, her family faced financial difficulties. However, the people in the alley were understanding and supportive, allowing her to sell her goods within the residential area.

Due to local regulations, the shop's opening hours were restricted, and nighttime sales were prohibited. Initially, the customers mainly consisted of residents from the alley and nearby office workers. However, in recent years, an increasing number of tourists have discovered this hidden gem.

Phuong mentioned that three years ago, her shop attracted nearly double the number of customers compared to now. In 2019, her establishment unexpectedly caught the attention of an American culinary film crew filming for Netflix's show "Street Food: Asia." After the episode aired, the number of visitors significantly increased, especially among international guests.

Two Philippines tourists embark on their first snail-tasting experience in Vietnam. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Foreign patrons like Rachel from Taiwan found themselves communicating with the staff using body language and ordering food by showing photos. Rachel, who was visiting Ho Chi Minh City for the first time, was intrigued by the positive reviews she had read about the snail shop online, and decided to give it a try.

Rachel said: "In Taiwan, we have a few snail restaurants, but they are quite rare. I've tried snails in Taiwan before, but the variety here is unmatched. When I first heard about razor clams, my curiosity led me to order them. The dipping sauces here are also intriguing, offering two different types. Perhaps this is a regular culinary experience for locals, but as a tourist, it's truly exceptional."

The morning opening hours of the shop also piqued the interest of female tourists like Rachel. She mentioned that "Having snails for breakfast is something I haven't come across anywhere else except in Vietnam."

Rachel (L) and her friend Luri try stir-fried razor clams with water spinach at Phuong's shop. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Rachel's friend, Iuri, admitted that he had never tried snails before. He ordered four different types based on the photos. Iuri described the dish as flavorful, with a strong seasoning and spicy sauce that manages to mask any fishy smell. Although the dining area is small and the surrounding traffic can be a bit noisy, Iuri didn't mind, as he had already familiarized himself with local life through prior research and watched an introductory video about the snail shop.

According to the owner, the shop no longer experiences long queues since customers continuously flow in and out, with the tables remaining occupied throughout the day. Phuong only operates between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m., occasionally extending until 2-3 p.m. Apart from regular customers residing near the alley, many visitors come to Phuong's eatery due to the influence of social media and their curiosity about the unconventional snail-selling hours.

Nguyen Thi Bich Ngan, a 41-year-old resident of District 8 which is more than 10 km away, discovered the snail shop through TikTok. As a freelancer, Ngan had the flexibility to venture out and savor the morning delicacies at 9 a.m., also her first time experiencing snails for breakfast.

"This place offers a variety of popular snails such as blunt mud creeper, ark clams, razor clams. I ordered salted coconut snails and salted waved nerite snails, which cost VND70,000. The snails were slightly small," Ngan said.

A dish of steamed ark clams is enhanced with a generous amount of lemongrass. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

When the shop first opened in 1998, it focused solely on selling stir-fried coconut blunt mud creeper. However, with an increasing customer base, Phuong expanded her menu to include various types of snails and explored new cooking techniques such as snails sautéed with butter, stir-fried snails with garlic, snails grilled with shacha sauce or cheese. Depending on the availability of ingredients at the wholesale market, Phuong gets the appropriate types of snails.

"Currently, the prices of garlic snails and scallops have increased, so I don't get them for sale. However, the basic varieties like snails, blunt mud creeper, coconut snails, waved nerite snails, California mussel, scallops, and clams are available daily," Phuong said.

Scallops are grilled over charcoal at Phuong's shop, infusing them with a delightful aroma. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Tran

Despite working tirelessly, the owner of this small shop always finds time to chat and welcome her guests. The snail shop in the alley serves as the primary source of income for Phuong's family, supporting her son's education as he nears the completion of his four-year university program.

Although it remains uncertain when she will gather enough funds to open a new establishment, Phuong said she is happy and grateful for her current life.