Mekong magic: discover Vi Thanh when the waters rise

Vi Thanh used to be the capital of the former Hau Giang Province until its recent merger with Can Tho City.

From September to November floods in the Mekong River and its tributaries cover fields, bringing fish, shrimp and rich silt.

Locals see this not as a disaster but a season of renewal.

Vi Thanh experiences floods later and longer than other parts of the delta since it sits downstream the Hau River, a distributary of the Mekong.

It is at its liveliest in early October, with its canals filled with fish, yellow sesbania flowers dien dien in bloom everywhere, and markets filled with snails and river produce.

Evenings bring pink-purple sunsets in clear skies.

Motorized wooden canoes locally called vo lai are used to explore the cajuput wetlands at Lung Ngoc Hoang Nature Reserve in Hau Giang. Photo by VnExpress/Linh Huynh

How to get there

Vi Thanh is about 60 kilometers from Can Tho City and nearly 190 km from Ho Chi Minh City. One can reach the place by road in four to five hours from Ho Chi Minh City.

As the heart of the former Hau Giang Province, Vi Thanh offers easy access to nearby attractions and accommodation options.

What to explore

Chom hom (Squatting) Market

The Vi Thanh experience starts before dawn at the chom hom market in the town center, named for the way both vendors and buyers sit on their haunches or small stools. Opening at around 3 a.m. its outdoor stalls sell fish, shrimp, vegetables, and fruits, mostly sourced from nearby farms and canals.

Visitors can find local items such as sesbania flowers, water mimosa, snail, and shrimp alongside fruits like pineapples, bananas and pomelos. Prices start at just VND10,000 and all transactions are done in cash.

After checking out the early-morning bustle, travelers can stop by the food stalls beside the market for breakfast. These eateries serve traditional treats such as pandan rice cakes, banana cakes and crab noodle soup and fermented fish vermicelli (bun mam), typically priced at VND10,000-15,000.

Lung Ngoc Hoang Nature Reserve

The Lung Ngoc Hoang Nature Reserve, some 40 kilometers from Vi Thanh, is home to hundreds of species of birds, fishes and wetland plants and was once filled with snakes.

Its name translates into "heaven’s sunken land."

Tourists can explore the cajuput wetlands by boat. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

During the floating season, visitors can glide through cajuput and mangrove forests on a vo lai. They can see storks returning to their nests and get an insight into how locals live with the floods. Eco-tours often include hands-on activities like fishing, catching snail and foraging for edible flowers.

Canoe rides through the reserve cost around VND100,000 for an adult and VND60,000 ($2.30 - $3.80) for a child, with each seating around 10 passengers. The best time to visit is around 8 a.m., when birds are most active.

A 21-meter-high observation tower in the center of the reserve offers views of the forest canopy and wetlands.

What to eat

The floating season brings dishes that celebrate the delta's river produce. A must-try is goi tep bong dien dien, a salad made with river shrimp, yellow sesbania flowers, shallots, roasted peanuts, and herbs. It is dressed in a sweet-and-sour fish sauce and served with rice crackers.

Another favorite is bitter melon soup with fish paste, featuring minced fish balls and sliced melon simmered in a clear broth.

The fish's sweetness balances the melon's light bitterness, especially when eaten with steamed rice.

Featherback fish, known for its boneless flesh, is often made into a fish paste. Some chefs take it further by stuffing the paste back into the fish's skin and frying it whole.

A Mekong Delta meal is not complete without boiled vegetables dipped in kho quet or caramelized fish sauce. A local favorite is water hyacinth, known for its crisp stems when lightly boiled.

Other specialties include fried catfish, steamed chicken and pork braised in coconut water.

Recommended dining spots include Tu Sang Bamboo Garden, Tru by Hilton Hau Giang City Center and Ngoai Thanh Restaurant.

Where to stay

Most travelers stay in downtown Vi Thanh, where accommodation is modest but convenient. Options range from guesthouses to mid-range hotels.

The town's only international-standard property, Tru by Hilton Hau Giang City Center, offers rooms with city views, starting at around VND900,000 ($34) a night.

From higher floors, guests can enjoy views of Vi Thanh’s skyline and sunsets. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

Budget travelers can consider the Hau Giang Hotel, where rooms start at about VND700,000 ($26) per night.