Circling the sacred: a journey to Tibet's Mount Kailash

Located over 1,000 km west of Lhasa, Mount Kailash is a site of spiritual significance by locals and pilgrims alike. It is surrounded by four peaks and blanketed in snow year-round. To preserve its sacredness, the Chinese government prohibits climbing, allowing only circumambulation at its base.

"The locals believe that stepping onto the slopes of Kailash is sacrilegious and could bring misfortune or even death," said Tran Quoc Thinh, 33, who visited the mountain in July 2024.

Mount Kailash stands against the blue sky. Photo courtesy of Quoc Thinh

The best time for this pilgrimage is from June to September, when the weather is relatively mild.

Thinh's 14-day journey took him through Lhasa, Shigatse, Saga, Darchen, and sacred lakes like Yamdrok and Manasarovar. The road from Lhasa to Darchen, at the foot of Mount Kailash, spans nearly 1,200 kilometers and crosses over 20 mountain passes, with views of wildflower-filled meadows.

More than just a Buddhist pilgrimage site, Mount Kailash is also central to Hindu beliefs, as it is considered the abode of Lord Shiva, symbolizing peace and divinity.

The high-altitude trek, averaging 4,500 meters, posed physical challenges. Some members of Thinh's group experienced altitude sickness, with symptoms like dizziness and numbness. They had to take breaks to acclimate. Fortunately, Thinh did not suffer from these effects.

Before setting off, he sketched a trekking route map for his group. Their path took them from 4,200 meters up to 5,600 meters at the highest point before descending back to 4,600 meters. The Kora trek around Kailash takes two days.

On the first day, the group set off after breakfast at 7 a.m. The trail, though rocky and uneven, did not involve climbs. Each traveler carried only essential items like food, warm clothing, and medicine. The rest of their belongings were left behind in Darchen, with an option to hire local porters to carry up to 10 kilograms per person.

By 11 a.m., they stopped for a break. Along the way, they encountered Tibetan pilgrims performing sacred prostrations, known as three steps, one bow, or the more intense five-point prostration, where the body is lowered flat onto the ground in devotion. The Vietnamese travelers paused to observe and join in silent prayer.

At 2 p.m., they reached a rest stop, where they shared a meal of rice, stir-fried vegetables, meat, and hot tea inside a communal tent with beds for weary pilgrims. After resting, they continued their trek. As the snow-covered peak of Mount Kailash became visible, the journey became more grueling. The group slowed down due to exhaustion, but Thinh encouraged them to push forward, reminding them they were 2 hours away from their goal.

As they neared the campsite, a hailstorm struck, with winds and fog obscuring the path. Thinh rushed forward in his raincoat, hoping to reach shelter quickly. Just 300 meters from the point, the storm cleared, revealing Mount Kailash bathed in sunlight. Overcome with emotion, some group members cried with joy, embracing each other as they realized they had completed half of the pilgrimage.

That evening, as the sunset cast golden hues over Mount Kailash at 9 p.m., the group retired early to prepare for the second leg of the trek.

At 6 a.m., the group resumed their journey, facing even colder temperatures of 2 degrees Celsius and harsh winds. Some members opted to ride horses or hire porters.

"There were nearly vertical slopes with 55-degree inclines, which made me dizzy just looking at them," Thinh recalled.

The second day was even tougher, as the terrain became steeper and rockier, with sheer cliffs on one side. The group had to crawl over boulders, stopping to catch their breath every 100 steps.

One elderly traveler began showing signs of altitude sickness, suffering from fatigue and cold exposure. He had to rest, use an oxygen bottle, and consume energy bars to recover. Tibetan pilgrims passing by stopped to check on them, offering water and dried fruit.

The final and most challenging stretch was Dolma La Pass, standing at 5,630 meters, with a 50-degree incline. Thinh noted that concentration was crucial, as the wind intensified, increasing the risk of slipping.

At the summit, known as Dolma La Pass or Tara White Pass, the group was welcomed by colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind, accompanied by monks chanting Buddhist mantras.

After two days of trekking, they finally stood before the mountain, hidden behind clouds.

Despite the cold, the travelers were ecstatic to have reached their goal. As the sunset cast a glow over the peak, its light contrasted against the sky, creating a mesmerizing sight.

After completing the Kora, the group descended back, stopping for a late 3 p.m. lunch, before continuing towards their final rest stop. Though the last 5 kilometers were easy, exhaustion slowed them down. Some arrived by 7 p.m., while others did not return until 10 p.m.

Dolma La Pass rises in the distance behind Darchen town. Photo courtesy of Quoc Thinh

On the third day, at 7 a.m., the group visited the monastery of Milarepa, where they were welcomed with cups of Tibetan butter tea. They then returned to Darchen before heading to Lake Manasarovar for a hot spring bath, a Tibetan tradition believed to cleanse the body and soul.

That evening, the travelers gathered for a final meal, reminiscing about the hardships they had overcome. They agreed that every challenge had been worth it, for the chance to stand before Mount Kailash.