Reimagining pho: culinary creativity or dilution of tradition?

Today, pho has many variations, from ingredients and preparation methods to the way it's consumed, leading to discussions about the appropriate use of the name pho.

In the Vietnamese version of the article "Luxury in a bowl: $24 lobster pho in HCMC" published on VnExpress, there were nearly 200 reader comments centered around the use of the word pho and the boundaries of creativity with the traditional dish.

A bowl of lobster pho priced at $24 at a restaurant in District 1, HCMC. Photo by VnExpress/Mai Trung

Some argue that the term pho shouldn't be used carelessly and that "pho should remain pho," suggesting a different name for dishes that combine pho noodles with shrimp, crab, snails, or fish. Others emphasize openness and creativity with traditional food, stating that "there are no strict rules defining what pho must be", and that the name should only be changed "if the pho noodles are completely removed".

Vietnamese cultural and culinary researchers also have diverse views on how pho should be named.

Le Thi Thiet, Chairwoman of the Nam Dinh Culinary Culture Association and pho artisan, believes that regional differences contribute to the diverse names of pho in Vietnam, but the dish should not stray from its original flavor, which defines its identity.

Thiet says that the use of spices should not be overdone, and authentic Vietnamese pho should only use Vietnamese spices. For instance, herbs in the broth are essential, and creativity should be limited to the meat ingredients such as beef, chicken, pork, or vegetarian options. The term pho is being overused today, leading to confusion for international visitors who cannot distinguish the key characteristics of Vietnamese pho. Careless use of the word pho not only fails to highlight the value of Vietnamese cuisine but also risks diluting the identity of a dish that has become a global symbol.

"We need to standardize and package pho recipes according to regions to preserve the development of this traditional dish in the future," Thiet said.

A bone marrow pho dish inspired by Nam Dinh-style pho and combining it with French-style beef broth. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

Cultural researcher Nguyen Thanh Loi, on the other hand, believes that the use of pho in many dishes is not an overuse of the word, but rather reflects the diversity, richness, and creativity of Vietnamese cuisine, as seen in ingredients, cooking methods, and ways of eating.

Loi pointed out that today, pho is not limited to traditional versions like beef or chicken, but also includes seafood, shrimp, and ostrich pho in HCMC, as well as reindeer pho made by Vietnamese people in Norway. In terms of preparation, there are many variations such as soup, dry, rolled, and mixed pho. Additionally, pho is now eaten not only in bowls but also served on plates.

Loi said that pho is similar to hu tieu - a kind of noodle soup served in southern Vietnam, which comes in various types such as Nam Vang-style, chicken, fish, squid, stir-fried, and dry versions.

The researcher explained that a dish's name is often determined by its main ingredient, and as long as pho noodles are used, it can be called pho. Similarly, dishes are named after their key noodles, like hu tieu, Quang-style noodles, or vermicelli.

A limited-edition gold-leaf pho priced at $161 at a high-end restaurant in HCMC. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

According to Loi, as life constantly changes, so does cuisine, which is a social phenomenon that evolves with the times. Pho, from its traditional roots to modern variations, changes according to consumer tastes and budgets.

Discerning diners will only opt for traditional pho with broth made from beef bones simmered for hours with a full range of spices, often sold at higher prices and by well-known brands. Less demanding eaters may choose instant pho or mass-produced pho, where the broth contains only basic spices and is sold at a lower price.

Ha Quach, a lecturer in Tourism and Hospitality Management at RMIT University, believes that there should be a balance between preserving traditional dishes and creating new variations. He acknowledges that cuisine is a creative and ever-evolving field. The use of pho noodles in dishes like rolled pho, crispy fried pho, or even lobster pho can be seen as a creative way to cater to the diverse tastes of today's diners.

This trend, known as fusion food - the blending of ingredients and cooking styles from different culinary traditions - is becoming popular in many countries, including Vietnam. The aim is to create new and appealing dishes. Such creativity could make pho more accessible and offer more culinary experiences, Quang said.

However, "expanding too many variations that aren't tied to the original values may dilute the identity and reputation of pho on the global culinary map," he warned.

He emphasized that these variations should be clearly named to avoid confusion, ensuring that traditional pho retains its original value.

Ha cited a classic example of California rolls, a well-known fusion dish that blends Japanese and American culinary styles. This type of sushi is the most popular in Canada and the U.S. and has contributed to the global spread of sushi, inspiring chefs worldwide to create non-traditional fusion dishes.

Hidekazu Tojo, the sushi chef who created the California rolls, was awarded one of Japan's highest honors - Cultural Ambassador. He is one of the few foreigners to receive this title, according to CBC News.

"This example shows the need to balance preserving traditional values and encouraging creativity in cuisine," Quang said.

According to the lecturer, new dishes made with pho noodles should be developed and named in a way that respects pho's identity, allowing it to thrive without losing its values on the international stage. Creativity can help expand pho's global reach, but chefs and restaurants should respect and convey the story of pho, from its origins to its value.