Saigon's expat hub restaurant innovates with cassava

Madame Lam, situated at 10 Tran Ngoc Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, is the brainchild of Chef Nhu Cuong.

Among the culinary offerings at this eatery is the cassava noodle.

Cassava roots can be traced back to the traditional dish enjoyed by the people of Quang Nam, a coastal province in central Vietnam. Thuan An Village in Dong Phu Town of Quang Nam is renowned for crafting cassava noodles.

Chef Nhu Cuong says that the craft of producing these noodles is dying out, and it is becoming challenging to find them even in Quang Nam.

At the entrance of his restaurant, a wooden table displays dried cassava noodles and cassava roots.

Cassava noodles and roots are displayed at Madame Lam restaurant in HCMC. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

Cassava noodles feature a net-like look, pressed into large, thin, square, or rectangular shapes reminiscent of rice paper.

Unprocessed noodles take on a dry, crispy form, setting them apart from the soft, flat noodles commonly used in Vietnamese noodle soups.

The original cassava noodles have ivory-white hue. Madame Lam uses a combination of butterfly pea flowers and lime juice to make the purple variation, and carrots for the dark yellow one.

A plate of purple cassava noodles at Madame Le restaurant. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

Achieving high-quality cassava noodles relies on a sunny period of three days and three nights for thorough drying.

Due to the labor-intensive nature of handmaking cassava noodles, dishes featuring this ingredient are placed on a seasonal menu and served infrequently. Cuong presents four dishes from the specialty: two noodle variations, a salad dish, and banh xeo (crispy pancake).

The traditional version of cassava noodle soup mirrors Quang-style noodles, featuring soft-boiled noodles served with shrimp, slices of pork belly, young ribs, and baby spinach.

Cassava noodle soup is served with baby spinach and pork ribs and roasted peanuts at Madame Lam restaurant. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

The rich broth, derived from bone broth, has a yellow hue achieved by using turmeric, imparting a distinctive aroma.

"In the traditional version, we usually use a good amount of turmeric, but I've made an adjustment by reducing it as many foreign diners aren't quite accustomed to the taste," said Cuong.

Adding his creative touch, the chef comes up with a salad dish adorned with banana flowers, carrots, cucumbers, herbs, and pan-fried shrimp.

Madame Lam's salad dish is presented to accentuate the net shape of the noodle. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

For banh xeo, the batter is created by using cassava noodle flour mixed with rice flour. The result is a series of crispy pancakes with a golden crust.

Inside, diners will find a blend of bean sprouts, sliced mango, and a variety of herbs.

The accompanying herbs are sandwiched within the pancakes themselves, breaking away from the regular practice of serving them as a side topping.

Crispy pancakes crafted from cassava flour at Madame Lam restaurant. Photo by VnExpress/Bich Phuong

A customer who tried cassava noodles for the first time at the restaurant said the noodles were firm with a chewy texture. She appreciated the absence of starchy sweetness typically found in regular noodles.

"A meal for two cost around VND159,000 - 179,000 ($6.70 - $7.50), which might be three to four times higher than your typical noodle soups. However, the spinach was still fresh and neatly trimmed. The shrimp and ribs were tender, and the pork belly featured a crispy skin. The dish was also presented beautifully," she said.

Cuong seeks to introduce cassava noodle dishes to more diners locally and globally.