An exhibit showcasing the collection was staged at the fashion house’s Paris flagship store, running from February 29 through March 17.
Titled “Tren Yen Xe” (On the Saddle of A Rolling Vehicle), this collection of photographs presents Vietnamese individuals adorned in Lemaire attire as they traverse the roads of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in 2023, captured by Finnish photographer Osma Harvilahti.
Vogue’s reporting highlighted that the collection’s inspiration came from a visit to Vietnam by the brand’s founder and designer Christophe Lemaire alongside his wife, Vietnamese-French designer Sarah-Linh Tran.
Christophe said he found the Vietnamese people’s sun protective garments, worn while navigating the streets, particularly striking.
Christophe mentioned that the collection was shaped by the theme of climate change.
“We like to design from reality,” Christophe shared with Vogue. “Like everyone, we’re experiencing global warming and the need for lighter fabric, lighter clothes, protection pieces—and we try to bring that functionality to our work.”
In its continuous evolution of quiet luxury, Lemaire has concentrated on the functionality, adaptability, and longevity of its clothing. Sarah-Linh Tran noted that the collection’s pieces are designed to remain fashionable across seasons with minimal alterations required—such as minor tweaks to the drawstring—while also offering protection and comfort through the use of airy materials like cotton, silk, and waterproof textiles.
Christophe said he took great care in selecting subjects for the photo series in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The photo series primarily featured fashion models and members of the general public.
The designer aimed to capture the genuine experience of Vietnamese individuals donning Lemaire’s garments amidst the dynamic urban landscape, thus vividly depicting the integral connection between clothing and human activity.
Model Le Thi Hue Huong is showcased wearing a compact cotton short jacket and oversized chino trousers, alongside a sport bag crafted from vegetable leather on Hanoi’s Long Bien Bridge.
Minh is seen riding his Honda Cub, clad in a cotton silk regular shirt and a raincoat made of water repellent coated cotton.
Harvilahti recounted his journey along the main thoroughfares of Hanoi to witness the intimate relationship between the populace and their apparel.
Vogue conveyed that within the bustling milieu of residents and vehicles, Harvilahti’s imagery captures the dynamic interaction of protective clothing, whether billowed or clinging to the body, as individuals make their way along the city streets. At night, the reflections of city lights on the coated fabrics become visible.
Having previously held the role of artistic director at Lacoste and Hermès, Christophe, 59, established his eponymous label in 1991, with his wife Sarah-Linh Tran serving as the brand’s artistic director. His career also includes tenures at esteemed luxury brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler, and Christian Lacroix.
Vietnamese people are depicted riding motorcycles in attire designed by Lemaire.
