Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

By Ngoc Tai   November 30, 2024 | 04:00 am PT
Nestled on the Hau River, Long Xuyen Floating Market offers a glimpse into Vietnam’s river-based trade, where tradition, community, and a simple way of life thrive despite modern changes.
Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

As dawn breaks, a line of boats carrying coconuts, sweet potatoes, and pineapples gather along a 2-kilometer stretch of the river, a distributary of the Mekong in Vietnam.

In mid-November, the morning mist and cool air accompany the sound of boats breaking the silence of the river.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Coconuts remain the most popular commodity traded on the river.

Despite the development of road networks, many locals still prefer the convenience and familiarity of buying goods from boats on the river.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Before passing coconuts to her customers, Ly Thi Bich Quyen (L) enjoys a cup of morning coffee with them.

Having spent nearly 20 years working at the floating market, Quyen, who lives in the delta's Soc Trang Province, shares that each boat carries around 9,000 coconuts. It takes her 3-4 days to collect the coconuts from local farmers before transporting them to Long Xuyen City for sale.

“The current helps us reach here overnight. We sell for 2-3 days, depending on the market,” she says.

According to traders, the floating market is not as lively as it once was, with the number of coconut boats decreasing by more than 70%. Quyen and her husband earn about VND7 million to VND8 million ($275 to $314) per month, which is enough to support their family of five.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Hoang Phu, another trader, unloads pineapples for wholesale buyers. He sources the produce from Kien Giang Province that borders An Giang, and brings it to the floating market to sell. Like many other boat owners, he often gives customers extra produce to maintain good relationships.

“Sharing profits keeps everyone happy,” Phu says.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

When the market is active, boats selling drinks, breakfast, and other food items move around the trading boats to offer their goods. Beverages and meals are reasonably priced at VND15,000 to VND25,000 ($6 to $9).

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Thu, who has been selling food at the floating market for 20 years, earns VND200,000 - VND300,000 ($7 to $11) per day.

“The market starts around 5:30 a.m. and winds down by 8 a.m. My husband and I only work half a morning and then head home,” she says.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

The market also attracts tourists, who can enjoy breakfast while gently swaying on the river. Boat rentals cost VND100,000 ($4) per person, offering visitors a unique experience.

During busy tourist periods, the boat owners often gather in one spot to chat and share stories.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Boats selling sweet potatoes and beans are docked close together, with “beo poles” - wooden poles displaying the goods being sold - sticking out at the front. This is a distinctive advertising method of floating markets.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

In the early hours, some traders can still be seen drowsy as they arrive at the market.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

Along the Hau River, where the market operates, many families live on boats or floating fish farms. Without land to call home, they live year-round on the river, making a living through fishing or trading with other vendors at the market.

Long Xuyen floating market: a river tradition

After the morning market, traders start cleaning up and preparing meals. For many, the simple life of a river trader is just another half-day routine.

 
 
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