Located on 89 Ton That Dam Street in District 1, Anan Saigon is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. Situated amid a neighborhood filled with food and good stalls, the restaurant takes residence in a six-story building adorned with old-style apartments constructed in the late 19th century.
The restaurant's modern dark blue design stands out in the middle of Ton That Dam Market, and attracts tourists from all over the world. The majority of diners who visit the restaurant are foreign tourists.
The ground floor, as well as the first and second floors, are dedicated to the restaurant, while the remaining floors house a bar and another eatery are also owned by the owner of Anan Saigon. Motorcycles parked in front of the entrance are relocated to the nearby parking lot to make room for waiting diners.
The restaurant's interior showcases paintings depicting lively scenes of Ho Chi Minh City.
Freshly awarded with a Michelin star, the restaurant continues to operate as regular.
As the clock strikes 5 p.m., the kitchen comes alive with activity, with staff members setting tables, arranging linen, and warmly greeting guests. The ground floor houses the open kitchen, offering diners a front-row view of the culinary preparations taking place.
Chef Franklin returns to his daily routine after achieving the Michelin award. He and the restaurant staff prepare for a fully booked Saturday evening.
Peter reflects on this title as a dream come true after six years of dedication. In 2017, the Vietnamese-American chef returned to his hometown, introducing a new style of cuisine that initially faced skepticism from his peers, as innovative dishes were not yet embraced in Vietnam.
However, his Ho Chi Minh City venture, for three consecutive years from 2021 to 2023, secured a place on the list of the top 50 restaurants in Asia.
These are titles that Peter's two renowned restaurants in Hong Kong have not yet achieved. Prior to his return to Vietnam, he achieved success in Hong Kong with two establishments specializing in Vietnamese cuisine. Conquering the challenging Hong Kong market convinced him that he could succeed anywhere.
At the restaurant, dishes such as banh mi with duck breast and foie gras pate are prepared for pre-ordered diners.
With experience working in large hotel restaurants, culinary studies in Australia, and a background in finance from Yale University in the United States, Peter built his Ho Chi Minh City establishment with the aim of offering both high-class dishes and a valuable dining experience. The young staff reflects this vision. The menu emphasizes the use of organic ingredients sourced locally.
One example of the innovative creations is the Ca Mau crab dish, which incorporates unique ingredients like Bafun Uni (sea urchin), red grapefruit, fried onion, and a shrimp head-based sauce.
Anan’s menu features popular Vietnamese dishes from all three regions, reimagined through culinary techniques and presentation. Peter prefers to describe these variations as a new Vietnamese cooking style or simply the new cuisine, rather than calling them fusion cuisine.
He believes these dishes maintain their roots with authentic flavors and local ingredients, while presenting a fresh style that can resonate globally, elevating familiar dishes to a higher-end, and fresh dining experience.
To create these new dishes, Peter immerses himself in the local culture, frequently visiting the locations where the traditional versions of the dishes originated.
During his recent stay in Hanoi to receive the Michelin star, the Vietnamese-American chef seized the opportunity to indulge in street food and exchange knowledge with a chef from a two-Michelin-starred Thai restaurant.
"My guiding principle has always been a focus on consistent quality, not merely to win awards but to serve customers," Frankin said.
Three years ago, he stirred controversy with a $100 banh mi featuring luxurious ingredients such as foie gras pate and truffle mayonnaise. More recently, he introduced a miniature bread (pictured), just the size of two fingers, wrapped with wagyu beef, a hint of pate, and adorned with sturgeon roe as a garnish.
This delicacy is part of the restaurant's tasting menu, consisting of 9 to 12 different small dishes, with the 9-item set priced at approximately VND1.6 million ($68.15) and the 12-item set at VND2.4 million ($102.22).
All dishes served are Vietnamese delicacies that have been recreated as new cuisine. Presently, the restaurant offers around 30 unique dishes and two set menus, each showcasing distinct local characteristics from all three regions.
The Hanoi-style La Vong grilled fish dish has been downsized and presented with flair. The original one-pan scallion side dish has been transformed into a vibrant green and yellow sauce infused with a blend of turmeric and dill.
The coconut ice cream dessert features the finest ingredients, including young coconut from the Mekong Delta's Ben Tre Province which is Vietnam's coconut kingdom, whipped cream, black sesame cake, lychee jelly, and Da Lat sturgeon roe. This is the mini version of the traditional coconut ice cream.
French Vietnamese diner, Kim Bui, was drawn to the restaurant out of curiosity sparked by its unique dishes and Michelin-star reputation. Following the Michelin announcement, Kim and her friend ventured to the restaurant without a reservation. Impressed by the innovative Vietnamese cuisine, she returned for a second visit before heading back to France.
During her first visit, she indulged in a variety of dishes, including banh xeo taco (taco pancakes), wagyu beef noodle soup, and spring rolls. She was particularly surprised by a dessert featuring ice cream with a non-smelly fish sauce. The vanilla ice cream was covered with fish sauce, resulting in a peculiar yet savory taste.
On her second day, Kim sampled the wagyu beef banh mi and other delectable creations. Having dined at several Michelin-starred restaurants in France, she noted that the individual creativity of each chef was a common thread between Michelin restaurants in Vietnam and France.
"The food here is unique, unlike anything I've found elsewhere. The popular dishes that cost just a few tens of thousands of Vietnamese dong are meticulously crafted and priced three to four times higher, but it is definitely worth it," Kim said.
Her initial meal, along with her friend, amounted to VND4 million ($170.41), which may seem high compared to the average spending of Vietnamese locals but falls within the mid-range for foreign guests.
At Anan, wooden boards are provided for diners to create lasting memories at the restaurant. The board on the ground floor is adorned with flags from various countries around the world.
Chef Peter's clientele comprises a diverse array of global citizens, including foreigners and Vietnamese patrons. This cultural diversity in the customer base inspires the chefs to create Vietnamese dishes that seamlessly integrate with global culinary trends.
"Looking at neighboring Southeast Asian countries like Thailand and Singapore, they received Michelin stars 6-7 years ago. In Vietnam, we are just at the beginning. Chefs in those countries also showcase traditional dishes from their respective cuisines. For years, I pondered why the diverse Vietnamese cuisine couldn't transcend traditional boundaries," Franklin said.
