Pho Khoi Hoi and Pho Lam on Hang Vai Street have made the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand list for offering great food at reasonable prices. Pho Khoi joined in 2024, and Lam earned its spot this year.
Both shops are famous for pho with loi, a cut of beef taken from the inner shoulder that's known for its marbling texture. Bring up pho loi on Hang Vai Street, and locals will point you to either Lam or Khoi. Still, each shop has its own following.
At 48 Hang Vai Street, Pho Lam has been open for more than three decades. Serving from 5:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. daily, the shop often sells out before closing time on weekends. It operates out of the owner's family home and has space for just seven tables inside and a few more set up on the sidewalk.
Bao Lam, who took over from his father, now runs the shop and handles the payments himself.
Pho Lam's star ingredient, the loi cuts, which cost around VND500,000 ($19) per kilo. It gives a satisfying bite and sweetness.
On weekends, the shop often sells out its loi within three hours of opening.
According to Lam, slicing the meat is a skill that comes with experience. The knife must be sharp, the hand steady, and the slices just thick enough to retain the texture after a brief blanching. In addition to loi, the shop also serves other cuts like rare beef, well-done brisket, or fatty brisket - another customer favorite.
The broth here is clear and sweet, the noodles are thick and never mushy. Bowls are priced from VND40,000 to VND100,000 ($1.53 to $3.82).
Just a few doors down at number 50 is Pho Khoi Hoi, which has also been in business for about 30 years. The shop has changed locations several times, before settling on Hang Vai Street in 2004. Among its fans are former national football coach Park Hang Seo and players from Vietnam's team.
The shop is named after its owner, Khoi, who still works behind the stove. Together with around four staff members, he handles everything from prepping ingredients to slicing meat and assembling bowls.
Pho Khoi is also known for its gau gion, a cut of brisket that has been simmered for three hours until tender, then sliced by machine to ensure consistency. The shop also serves other beef cuts such as rare and well-done beef, or even bo sot vang - wine-braised beef stew.
Photo by Tung Dinh
Its broth is fatty, simmered for over 20 hours with spices and secret additions. Khoi says the recipe has not changed since the shop first opened.
The space inside is modest, with five tables seating about 20 people. Most customers opt to sit outside on the sidewalk where it is more spacious.
Pho Khoi is open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., and prices range from VND45,000 to VND90,000 ($1.72 to $3.44) per bowl. In the evenings, they also serve stir-fried pho, fried rice, and beef hotpot.
Duy Khanh (L) and Minh Tam, both 22, are regulars at Pho Lam.
"The Michelin nod this year gave us even more reason to bring our friends and family here," Khanh said.
