Tourists on a food tour in Hai Phong often find a special dish called sui din. This dish, with its origins in the traditions of the Hoa people (Vietnamese of Chinese descent) in the city, is widely loved and available at many places across Hai Phong.
This treat bears resemblance to banh troi (glutinous rice balls), crafted from glutinous rice flour and filled with a mixture of black sesame and peanuts, to be savored alongside molasses syrup.
A notable establishment that has secured its place on Hai Phong's culinary map is Ut's eatery, situated at 163 Cau Dat Street in Ngo Quyen District.
With a total area of nearly 100 meters square, this spot welcomes patrons from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Recognizable by its signs and stalls adorned with sweet soup desserts stationed at the entrance, it's easily located by diners.
Nguyen Thi Ut has been selling this dish for more than 10 years. While she sells various sweet dessert soups like black bean, green bean, and lotus seed, it's the sui din that everyone loves, both locals and tourists alike.
Ut explains that the treat’s crust is made from high-quality sticky rice. First, the rice is soaked in salt water for a day, with the water changed two to three times to prevent sourness. Next, it's ground into a fine powder and left to settle to absorb moisture. This results in a smooth, dry powder that is mixed with water to form the crust.
The filling, a blend of black sesame, roasted peanuts, and grated coconut, is gently heated in a pan before being encased within the dough.
The filling is placed in the middle and then tightly wrapped around the edges to prevent the cake from breaking when dropped into the pot of water. Ut's sui din ball is approximately two-thirds the size of the Hanoi-style glutinous rice ball.
The balls are served with a molasses syrup mixed with shredded ginger, which adds a gentle sweetness with a touch of spice.
A serving of sui din typically comprises 4-5 cakes, garnished with shredded coconut, roasted peanuts, black sesame, and a touch of ginger, all for VND15,000 (60 cents).
Manh Hung, a 20-year-old visitor from Ho Chi Minh City, stumbled upon Ut's eatery during a Hai Phong food tour in April. Upon tasting the sui din, he noted its similarities to Vietnamese banh troi tau in appearance, with both dishes featuring a sweet sauce, ginger, and a crust made from sticky rice.
However, he noted, "the banh troi tau I had was filled with green beans, giving it a sweet and nutty flavor, while the sui din’s filling was made from black sesame, which was lighter and easier to eat."
Despite being a beloved snack enjoyed year-round, sui din sees heightened popularity during the winter months.
"There were days in winter when I sold out within 2-3 hours, yet people continued to come, with many waiting up to 30 minutes for a bowl," the shop owner explained.
During the summer, demand for this dish remains, albeit not as high. Visitors should take note that the shop lacks enclosed space for air conditioning and has limited parking.
