Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

By Quynh Mai   November 25, 2023 | 06:58 pm PT
For over two decades, Hanoi’s Dong Da District has been enchanted by a southern-style noodle salad, as diners gather to witness the captivating scene of beef catching fire on a pan.
Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

The beef noodle salad eatery inside Alley 111 of Khuong Thuong Street in Dong Da District has become a beloved local spot over the last 20 years.

It's not just known for its tasty beef noodle salad; customers also come to see the captivating fire performance that takes center stage in the kitchen of the 67-year-old owner Ha Dinh Hoa.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

As a soldier who participated in Vietnam War, Hoa used to live and work in Ho Chi Minh City. During this time, he learned the recipe for the southern beef noodle salad.

In the early 2000s, Hoa opened his shop at the current address, and has been operating it continuously since then. Apart from inheriting the recipe, he added his own unique touch to the dish by introducing a fire performance where he stirs fried beef on the stove with a pan.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

As customers place their orders, the culinary spectacle begins. Hoa uses a mini gas stove and a small pan. He waits for the oil in the pan to heat up, adds sliced beef marinated with pepper and minced garlic, and gently stirs with chopsticks.

Hoa then performs his stir-frying techniques. He gently shakes his wrist while holding the pan's handle, causing the flames to flare up and cover the entire mouth of the pan. The beef, already marinated with spices, sizzles and releases the aromatic scent of pepper and garlic.

Hoa revealed that mastering this technique required considerable time and effort. He emphasizes the importance of ensuring that the meat rotates correctly in the pan, preventing it from flying out. The flame must be carefully controlled within a specific range to cook the meat without flaring up excessively or spreading too widely.

The fire performance lasts only about 20 seconds.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

The eatery opens from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily in a modest area that can serve up to seven guests at a time.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

The beef noodle salad is a medley of eight key ingredients: lettuce, vermicelli noodles, bean sprouts, beef rolls, stir-fried beef, roasted peanuts, fried shallots, and a sweet and sour sauce.

"The beef must be eaten right away after cooking to retain its tenderness and deliciousness. If it cools down or is stir-fried a second time, it may become dry, tough, and lose its desirable qualities," Hoa said.

Hoa thus only prepares the bowls once customers place their orders.

He places lettuce leaves at the bottom, then adds vermicelli, fresh bean sprouts, slices of beef rolls, and finally stir-fry the meat.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

After cooking for a few minutes, the beef is layered on top of the noodles. A generous amount of crushed peanuts and fried shallots are then added to enhance the overall flavors.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

The sauce is added. It shares ingredients with the sauce used in bun cha - grilled pork with vermicelli noodles

The sauce is made using various spices like fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, and water, following a specific ratio that notably excludes garlic or chili.

Savor the flare: two decades of Hanoi’s beef noodle delight

Diners need to mix the ingredients together before eating, allowing them to absorb the sauce.

Prices range between VND40,000-70,000 (US$1.65-2.90).

Hoa's establishment attracts a steady stream of customers, with regulars and young diners discovering the gem through social media posts. While the fire performance may draw them in, it's the commitment to cleanliness and the use of fresh ingredients that keep patrons coming back for more.

Ha Dinh Hoa showcases his fire performance while stir-frying beef on a pan over a mini gas stove. Video by VnExpress/Quynh Mai

 
 
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