Situated at 48 Cau Go Street in the heart of Hanoi's Old Quarter, Mrs. Duc chicken noodle soup has gained a loyal following over its 30-year history. The shop operates exclusively in the evenings from 4p.m. to 10p.m., extending its hours on weekends. As twilight settles, wisps of smoke begin to rise from the stall.
Bun thang (chicken noodle soup) is a traditional dish in Hanoi cuisine, originating from the creative use of Tet leftovers. The dish features a meticulous and sophisticated combination of ingredients and preparation techniques.
A bowl of bun thang requires at least 20 ingredients. Some believe the name bun thang comes from its composition, where the ingredients combine like a ladder’s rungs (thang in Vietnamese).
Another interpretation suggests that thang in Sino-Vietnamese means soup, so bun thang can be understood as noodles served with soup. The dish features a refreshing broth suitable for winter and summer.
Ngoc, Mrs. Duc's daughter-in-law, notes that the noodle shop is always bustling with customers throughout the year. Even with six staff members, the shop remains incredibly busy. On a typical day, Mrs. Duc's eatery manages to serve approximately 500 bowls of bun thang, and up to 800 bowls during peak periods such as weekends and Tet holidays.
Located 300 meters away from Hoan Kiem Lake, it attracts a constant flow of tourists. Additionally, it has built a loyal customer base over the years.
"Some customers have been coming here since childhood. They've been visiting the restaurant for decades," Ngoc said.
The guest dining area, with about six tables and low chairs, is located on the sidewalk. However, the limited space can lead to crowded conditions, prompting some guests to search for seating around 100 meters into the alley.
The stall itself showcases the ingredients, including chicken, intestines, and eggs, in a glass cabinet, while also housing the large pot of broth.
Having maintained the shop for over three decades, Mrs. Duc has now passed on the family profession to her son and daughter-in-law. They have taken complete charge of the shop's operations for the past three years.
Among the various noodle soup types, bun thang demands attention to detail in its ingredients. The preparation requires time and precision. Chicken is boiled and shredded by hand. The chicken skin is filtered and torn into thin strips.
Golden-fried eggs, pork rolls, and radishes are sliced into strands. Notably, these strands must be thin and uniform. Additionally, shiitake mushrooms are an essential component of the bun thang bowl.
The owner emphasizes the selection of ingredients and suppliers. Chickens, bones, vegetables, and other components must be fresh and used within the same day.
Every morning, the family rises early to select and prepare the ingredients before simmering the broth. The broth is simmered from pork and chicken bones, along with dried shrimp heads, resulting in a savory flavor.
When a customer places an order, the owner blanches the noodles in boiling water, assembles the chicken and other ingredients in a bowl, and then pours in the broth. The bun thang’s clear and rich broth engulfs the noodles, which are soft, white, and resilient.
A bowl of chicken noodle soup at Mrs. Duc eatery attracts diners with vibrant hues of yellow from the fried eggs and pork rolls, dashes of red from the carrots, and sprinkles of green onions and laksa leaves. The chicken is carefully selected, resulting in a tender and sweet meat.
While savoring bun thang, diners can add vinegar, chili, garlic, pepper and shrimp paste to enhance the dish profile.
Diners can also order extra meatballs for a hearty meal. In addition to bun thang, the restaurant also offers mixed pho, vermicelli with chicken soup, and boiled chicken intestine.
A bowl of bun thang at Mrs.Duc costs VND60,000 ($2.50). Many customers consider the price slightly higher than that of other popular bun thang shops in Hanoi
Lan Anh, a tourist from Da Nang, said that “Although I consider the price on the higher side, it aligns with the quality offered. A serving of bun thang is quite filling with generous portions of noodles.
The chicken is crunchy and the broth is flavorful. Bun thang has always been my go-to dish whenever I visit Hanoi. I appreciate the intricate combination of ingredients and the meticulous preparation involved in this noodle dish.”
