Tucked inside Alley 61 Dinh Tien Hoang, the 70-year-old eatery is packed from early morning. The passage is so tight that only one row of tables fits. The remaining space doubles as a walkway and parking area for residents of the alley.
But this scene will soon disappear, as the alley is scheduled for demolition to build a new park and public square.
Pho Thin Bo Ho was founded in 1955 by Bui Chi Thin, who began with a noodle stall. According to his grandson, third-generation owner Bui Chi Thanh, a pho-loving landlord once invited the cook to move his stall into the alley.
He later offered Thin an old 10-square-meter kitchen, now Thanh’s family home, where the business took root.
When it rains, diners move inside the house. Those seated outside often shuffle aside to avoid motorbikes.
Thanh says the shop will have to relocate by April next year, or early 2027 at the latest.
He is petitioning local authorities for assistance in securing a rental space, arguing that Pho Thin Bo Ho is a brand that has contributed to the identity of Hanoi.
Although he no longer cooks, Thanh oversees operations and delegates tasks to staff. He said that running a shop now is not like in his grandfather's days, when all you needed to worry about was making good broth.
Today, he must handle everything from marketing to customer feedback.
Regulars cherish the shop’s old-Hanoi vibe, but popularity has also brought criticism.
Customers say the pho tastes good, as long as you don’t pay attention to the environment. On rainy days, the alley becomes damp, and water drips onto diners.
The roof cover is so uneven that Thanh has to stick a pair of chopsticks under to support it.
Despite the setting, some guests still prefer the shabbiness, even if it is uncomfortable.
For customer Minh Hoang, the charm lies in the Hanoi flavor. The bowl is topped with plenty of meat and just enough noodles.
“If they can make a good bowl of medium-rare and well-done beef, then the pho is good,” he said, adding that the seating is part of the old-quarter dining experience.
Do Xuan Thu, a visitor from Phu Tho Province that borders the capital, says he had heard of the shop but only tried it by chance while walking near Hoan Kiem Lake.
“The seating is inconvenient, but the broth is tasty, the beef is delicious, it lives up to the hype”, he shared.
Thanh insists the recipe remains unchanged from his grandfather’s time, with the only addition being brisket and flank cuts, which older generations once avoided for being chewy.
The beef comes from grass-fed cattle rather than industrially raised animals. The meat is sliced only after each order is placed to maintain freshness.
About 500 meters away, a new branch on Hang Voi Street has been open for two months. The two-story venue offers more space and cleaner surroundings.
