French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

By Tu Nguyen   February 17, 2024 | 11:32 pm PT
In Hanoi, Hey Pelo, founded by Julien Sanchez in 2018, blends Lyon flair with Vietnamese charm for curious palates.
French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

Originating from the Rhône-Alpes region, now part of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes in France, French tacos emerged in the early 21st century. These unique culinary creations marry a tortilla shell with a filling of meat, vegetables, fries, and sauce.

This is also the fundamental element of a Mexican taco, with the only distinction being that French tacos are tightly rolled, whereas Mexican tacos are akin to an open-mouthed sandwich.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

Julien arrived in Vietnam in 2016 and found inspiration for his venture after meeting his wife in 2017. The challenge initially lay in familiarizing customers with the concept of French tacos. Even French people are unfamiliar with this culinary creation, especially those residing outside Lyon, the capital city in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

He first tasted French tacos during his middle school years. In his hometown, they were treated as a snack, known for their affordability and easy accessibility.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

Hey Pelo, named after the Lyon slang term meaning "guy," opened its first location at 32 Xuan Dieu Street, Tay Ho District, initially targeting the expatriate community. However, the restaurant quickly gained traction among Vietnamese patrons, prompting the establishment of two more branches at 59 Phan Ke Binh Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi, and 60 Tran Khac Chan, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

During lunch hours, the establishment in Ba Dinh District receives a surge of orders, mostly for takeout or delivery. With numerous visitors, the restaurant experiences extended wait times for those dining in. As evening approaches, both floors of the restaurant are bustling with customers.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

At peak times, Julien and the store manager step into the kitchen to lend a hand to the staff.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

With its five size options ranging from XS to L, Hey Pelo caters to various appetites and preferences. Prices range from VND75,000 to VND350,000 ($3 to $14) per taco.

As per Julien, the largest size resembles the dimensions of a bicep, weighing approximately 4 kilograms. For most people, opting for a size S is a suitable choice, priced at around VND130,000 ($5).

Customization is a key feature, allowing customers to choose their vegetables, meat, sauce, and optional side dishes, such as pineapple, olives, and cheese. For protein choices, the store offers six options, including beef and chicken.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

To place an order, customers follow a simple process, selecting what they want to include in their tacos. Optional side dishes come with an additional cost ranging from VND25,000 to VND30,000, while vegetables, meat, and sauce options are already included in the base price.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

After making their selections, the staff proceeds to assemble the ingredients into a tortilla shell before placing it in the oven. Each order takes approximately 15-20 minutes to complete, including the baking process.

Julien said that in France, this food concept originated in a suburb with a significant immigrant population, targeting workers in need of quick and filling meals.

Julien said he likes making such tacos in Vietnam because of the affordable availability of fresh ingredients. Everything is sourced locally and all the sauces are made by hand.

"Apart from ensuring quality, this is also a means to contribute to the local economy," he said.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

Initially, the available sizes were limited to S, M, L, and XL. However, with the growing number of Vietnamese customers, feedback suggested that size S was still too sizable for an individual serving. In response, Julien introduced smaller size options, including XS, and also accommodated the preference to cut the larger S-sized taco in half. Julien noted that the practice of cutting the taco in half emerged only in Vietnam.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

The assembled tacos are then placed into the oven for baking.

French tacos: a taste of Lyon in Hanoi

The taco is wrapped in foil to ensure it stays warm, even when taken away. Pictured is a size S taco.

Hoai Thuong in Hanoi praised the generously filled taco and opted for a size S, finding it sufficient for two people. She prefers the ground beef and the shop's cheese sauce. The soft and tightly rolled crust effectively retains its heat.

However, Thuong noted a downside - the wait time. Despite the tight roll, she mentioned that the filling tends to spill out easily when eaten. While acknowledging the delicious taste, she emphasized that, due to its richness and relatively higher cost, she might not make it a daily food like banh mi.

The preparation of French tacos at Hey Pelo in Hanoi.

Photos by Giang Huy

 
 
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