Around 2 a.m., the house of Luong Huong's family in Duong Lam Village, Son Tay Town, known for making roast pork, is already lit.
Pham Thi Huong, the owner, leaves home at 1 a.m. to the slaughterhouse to select the best pork belly. It is a thick and evenly layered cut that, when roasted, allows the fat to melt, making the meat soft and aromatic.
In Duong Lam, roast pork is a staple on almost every dining table, alongside other specialties like fermented soy sauce, peanut candy, and rice cakes.
According to legend, King Ngo Quyen served this dish to his soldiers to celebrate his victory at the Battle of Bach Dang against Chinese invaders in 938. Proud of this history, the villagers have preserved the recipe to this day.
Before roasting, the meat is marinated with a ground mixture of shallots, pepper, fish sauce, salt, and most importantly, guava leaves, to create an aroma. The meat is marinated for 5 to 10 minutes, then wrapped with a layer of banana leaves to prevent the spices from spilling out during roasting.
The preparation area is the backyard of the house, with 5 to 7 people working each shift, depending on the amount of meat. On average, the family processes 200 to 300 kilograms of meat daily, starting at dawn to have it ready for delivery to restaurants and banquet services by 7 a.m. During peak days, they handle over 500 kilograms to meet the demand.
The meat is rolled around bamboo poles, with each pole holding 3 to 4 pieces, requiring two people to lift it onto the fire. Huong emphasizes that the bamboo roasting method is irreplaceable by machines.
To get the perfect roast, the meat must be rotated for about 4 to 5 hours. Industrial ovens and metal skewers cook the meat faster but cannot replicate the crispy skin and aroma imparted by bamboo.
Each roasting session consumes about 25 kilograms of charcoal. The heat in the kitchen is so intense that even standing nearby feels scorching.
