Located at 1 Hang Chieu Street in Hoan Kiem District, Hung Thinh's cha ruoi (ragworm fritters) stall has been an icon in Hanoi for over three decades. This small yet bustling eatery attracts locals and tourists alike during the ragworm season each year.
The stall's owner, 45-year-old Bui Thi Nga, is the second-generation custodian of this family tradition. She inherited the business from her mother, now in her seventies.
"We began selling cha ruoi in the early 1990s. Before opening the stall, my grandfather and mother used to make this for neighbors and colleagues," Nga said.
The family has operated at the same house, a property passed down from her grandparents.
Cha ruoi is made from a marine creature found in the brackish waters of northern Vietnam. Farmers have long called ragworms "heaven's bounty" as they unexpectedly emerge from the mud, bringing farmers significant income every season.
Ragworms are seasonal, with two main harvests: spring (March to June) and autumn (August to December). Hung Thinh sources its ragworms from Hai Duong and Nghe An provinces.
"We only select large worms, and if even one or two are dead in a batch, we discard the entire lot to maintain quality," Nga said.
Out-of-season worms are frozen to ensure year-round availability.
At Hung Thinh, the preparation follows a recipe unchanged since Nga's grandfather's era. The ragworms are cleaned and mixed with minced pork, dill, scallions, eggs, and a vital ingredient - tangerine peel - before being fried in hot oil.
Tangerine peel is an indispensable ingredient in cha ruoi. Its essential oils help neutralize toxins, and reduce the fishy smell of the ragworms.
"Without tangerine peel, the flavor of cha ruoi would be completely different," Nga said.
The variety of tangerine used is grown in northern provinces such as Lang Son, Tuyen Quang, and Cao Bang. Nga's family has a supplier in Lang Son, who ships the peel to Hanoi to ensure a consistent supply for their recipe.
The fritters are prepared fresh on-site, with variations depending on the quantity of ragworms used. For diners eating at the stall, the fritters are fried until golden, but not overly done, to preserve their sweetness and aroma. For takeaways, the fritters are pre-fried, so customers only need to reheat them in an air fryer or pan at home.
A large portion costs between 170,000 and 220,000 ($6.70 to $8.70), while smaller portions range from VND45,000 to VND75,000 ($1.80 to $3). Each dish is served with vermicelli, herbs, and pickles.
A large VND170,000 portion is packed with ragworms and perfect for two people to enjoy.
"Ragworms are protein-rich, so it's best not to overeat them. Eating just enough is the most refined way to enjoy this delicacy," said one diner.
Operating daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., except for three days during Lunar New Year, Hung Thinh's location in the Old Quarter means space is tight. The stall accommodates only two sidewalk tables, with additional seating for 20 on the third floor.
Lunchtime, from 11 a.m.to 1:30 p.m., is the busiest period for the stall. The stall thrives, especially during the colder months, when business doubles compared to summer. From locals to international tourists, the crowd is diverse, and Nga is constantly frying fritters to keep up with demand.
In addition to cha ruoi, the stall offers crab, shrimp, and mantis shrimp spring rolls, priced at VND12,000 (50 cents) each, except VND18,000 for crab rolls. For those looking to cook at home, unprocessed ragworms are also sold, priced between VND300,000 and VND600,000 ($11.80 to $23.60) per kilogram.
Hung Thinh’s stall is located in the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, where space is tight. Parking is limited, and visitors with cars must park about 500 meters away or opt for public transportation.
Ha Anh, a regular customer who often stops by for lunch, shared her love for the dish.
"My family used to live on Hong Ha Street, just over a kilometer away from the stall. Even though we’ve moved farther away, I still come here every ragworm season," Anh said.
Running a cha ruoi stall is not without its challenges. Natural conditions like storms can affect ragworm harvests, and the cost of high-quality ingredients remains a constant concern.
"We strive to maintain quality while keeping prices reasonable. It's not always easy, so we rely on family members to help and only hire two assistants," Nga said.
