A love affair with Ho Chi Minh City: a British traveler's journey

Visiting in late February, the British freelance writer spent a week wandering Vietnam's southern metropolis without a fixed plan.

The approach led him to unexpected discoveries, from hidden cafés, street vendors, to culinary experiences. To him, HCMC exuded an electric energy that turned even a stroll into an adventure.

Despite relying only on Google searches and a few bookmarked spots, he let the city guide his journey, embracing surprise along the way.

Ben Maguire sips iced coffee while exploring the streets of HCMC. Photo courtesy of Ben Maguire

His adventure started the moment he landed at Tan Son Nhat Airport, where he struggled to communicate with a Vietnamese-speaking taxi driver.

Then, the central District 1 reminded him of New York, with motorbikes moving through the streets in a daring yet synchronized flow of traffic.

To explore, Maguire used ride-hailing motorbikes and also tried the new metro system. Sitting on the back of a bike, he finally understood the phrase "organized chaos" of HCMC roads. His driver weaved through the dense traffic without hesitation.

"I held onto my banh mi, closed my eyes, and repented for all my past mistakes," Ben joked, calling the ride a free rollercoaster experience that deserved an extra tip.

While the streets were unforgettable, what stayed with Maguire was the food culture. To him, HCMC felt like a paradise for food lovers.

"I set myself the mission to eat my way through Saigon and managed to try all the dishes, from broken rice, banh mi to hu tieu noodle soup," Maguire shared.

After this food tour, he imagined composing a love letter to banh mi and even marrying a bowl of pho just to remain in Vietnam.

But among all the dishes, it was hu tieu noodle soup that stole his heart. Sitting at a street stall past midnight, slurping a bowl of the thick chewy translucent noodles while watching the city that never sleeps, left an impression.

Bui Vien Street at night is filled with visitors. Photo courtesy of Ben Maguire

Maguire also adapted to HCMC's nightlife, finding himself at a beer stall. Crouched on a red plastic stool, knees almost touching his elbows, he toasted beers with newfound Vietnamese friends, joking that the drink was "colder than an ex-lover's heart."

What amazed him most was the city's movement. One moment, he'd be sipping iced coffee in an alley, the next, he'd be swept into the crowd of a market. Like many visitors, he explored the Ben Thanh Market, where he entered as a tourist and left feeling like he had survived a real-life Hunger Games challenge.

"Every shopkeeper greeted me with compliments and sales pitches. I could not tell if they were flattering me or just negotiators, but I walked away with two scarves and a souvenir," he laughed.

Even sleepless nights in his District 1 hotel room gave him insight into the city. The horns, engines, and barking dogs became a symphony, each motorbike honking like a trumpet in an orchestra of urban life.

Having traveled across the world, Maguire found real-life superheroes in HCMC. That’s how he described the people he saw on the streets of Saigon.

He was in awe of a man balancing a refrigerator on a motorbike, a woman carrying five baskets of fruit, and a banh mi vendor assembling sandwiches faster than he could think.

When he asked a local how people managed to stay calm amid the city’s chaotic rhythm, they shrugged and told him to just go with the flow.

"Maybe that’s the secret to life, and that’s why I love this city," Maguire reflected, describing his experience not as culture shock, but culture admiration.

After a week in Ho Chi Minh City, Maguire bid farewell with a hug for his taxi driver and a promise to return.