How Vietnamese coffee became a New York sensation

Beneath Manhattan's skyscrapers stands a coffee cart, reminiscent of the street vendors in Vietnam, only sleeker.

On its counter sits a phin filter dripping coffee into a cup, catching the eyes of passersby.

Behind the counter is 28-year-old Nguyen Nhu Thao, a Quang Tri native and co-founder of First Phin First, who brews each cup herself.

Set up in June by Thao and her boyfriend, Chad, the mobile coffee cart has the goal of introducing Vietnamese coffee culture to the U.S.

The couple set up their pop-up carts around New York.

Nguyen Nhu Thao and Chad’s coffee cart stands outside a burger shop in New York, the U.S. Photo courtesy of Nguyen Nhu Thao

Recently they were chosen to serve coffee at upcoming events hosted by Netflix and trading platform Robinhood.

Thao moved to the U.S. in 2013, first settling in California, where Vietnamese coffee shops were easy to find. But when she relocated to New York three years ago, she struggled to find a phin brew made from robusta beans. Locals preferred arabica blends with a mild flavor and served in oversized cups.

"Vietnamese phin coffee is different: the size is small but it has a powerful taste," she says.

Ironically, Thao was not a coffee drinker until a summer trip back home changed everything.

She fell in love with ca phe sua da or Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk, and soon could not start her mornings without it.

That ritual inspired the name "First Phin First", a twist on the phrase "first things first" and reflecting her belief that no day begins without coffee.

In early 2024, after Chad lost his job during a round of layoffs, the couple decided to take the business seriously. They hosted tasting sessions for friends to experiment with blends and adjust recipes to American palates.

By June they launched their first pop-up in front of a burger shop, and it was soon packed as, thanks to Chad’s TikTok marketing, it went viral overnight.

They sold hundreds of cups that day.

The presumably grateful burger shop owner said it was his best sales day ever as customers, drawn in by the coffee, stayed for the food.

Nguyen Nhu Thao and Chad behind the counter at an event in New York. Photo courtesy of Nguyen Nhu Thao

Americans were fascinated by the slow-drip filter and the creamy taste of condensed milk coffee.

Thao jokes that most Americans tend to offer polite compliments even when they don't really enjoy something. But this time, many messaged her afterward to ask about the next pop-up, suggesting the coffee had won them over.

One viral TikTok clip showing a foreign customer tasting Vietnamese coffee for the first time racked up more than two million views. He marveled at how the sweet and bitter flavors were balanced, and remarked on its chocolatey aroma.

Another clip, which garnered more than 1.5 million views, captures a woman growing emotional, almost in tears, after her first sip of ca phe sua da.

Thao's cart is compact, with just enough space for grinders, milk bottles, and phin filters imported from Vietnam. During events, she adds a few red plastic stools, evoking the streetside cafes of Saigon.

Her menu sticks to Vietnamese favorites: bac xiu (Saigon-style milk and coffee), ca phe cot dua (coconut coffee) and ca phe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk).

One thing she doesn't serve? Plain black coffee.

She recalls one customer who assumed Vietnamese black coffee would be similar to an Americano and asked for an order. After the first sip, he was stunned and immediately asked for extra milk.

Though Thao still has a full-time job, First Phin First has hosted four independent pop-ups since June, each drawing large crowds.

At one event, the queue stretched across the street as people waited to try the "small but mighty" drink from Vietnam.

A cup, made from robusta beans from Dak Lak Province, costs $6, cheaper than most Americanos in the city.

The pop-up's growing buzz has brought new business opportunities. The duo now serves coffee at private and corporate events across the city, sometimes serving more than 200 guests in one session.

Many clients have already booked them for next year.

Thao says: "Most of our income comes from events. The pop-ups themselves barely break even. Sometimes we even give the coffee away for free."

She wants to introduce Vietnamese coffee and build a loyal community. In a city that never slows down, the unhurried drip of a phin might seem incongruous, but that is what possibly makes it stand out.

Thao says the beverage event scene in New York is competitive, and vendors get overlooked unless they have a unique offering.

But their Vietnamese phin coffee appears to have given the duo an early taste of success.

She has never received barista training, but her affection for Vietnamese coffee culture runs deep. She even hopes to quit her day job someday and open a coffee shop.

If she does open a café, however, she plans to use espresso machines to keep up with customer demand since phin brewing is too slow for high volumes.

But the shop will use 100% Vietnamese robusta beans, and phin filters will always be available for anyone wanting an authentic experience.

Amid the endless lattes and Americanos of New York, Thao's Vietnamese coffee stands out as a taste of home and a reminder that, even in a busy city, some moments are worth slowing down for.

 

 

How Vietnamese coffee became a New York sensation

Khách Mỹ thử cà phê phin Việt ở New York