Saigon's favorite late-night bites

Venturing through the streets of Ho Chi Minh City after hours unveils a hidden world of wonders. While the majority of restaurants and food chains usually wrap up around 10 p.m.-10:30 p.m., many tucked-away eateries in Saigon keep their doors open well past midnight.

For foodies, here are some go-to spots to satiate late-night cravings.

1. Huyen Broken Rice

Known locally as "ghost broken rice," this spot has been serving up delectable dishes for over two decades. With its aromatic rice and charcoal-grilled ribs, Huyen Broken Rice offers a diverse menu, featuring rib rice, pork belly, egg rolls, and more. Affordable prices starting from VND40,000 ($1.65) make it a popular choice, although the small alley seating may be a bit tight.

The glass cabinet at Huyen Broken Rice contains a diverse selection of delectables, including grilled meat, fried eggs and scallion oil. Photo by VnExpress/Huynh Nhi

At 4 p.m. daily, the air in the alley at 95 Dinh Tien Hoang Street fills with the aroma of freshly cooked rice and smoky charcoal-grilled ribs. Operating for over 20 years, Huyen is open from afternoon to 4 a.m. The restaurant sees a surge in customers after 7 p.m.

Huyen broken rice, featuring 20 plastic tables and chairs along a narrow alley, offers a menu akin to other broken rice shops, including the acquired taste of pha lau - offal stew. What sets it apart is the dipping sauce, which is stored in a large bowl. This allows diners the freedom to customize their experience with however much flavor they want.

2. Lam Vinh Mau che cart

In operation since 1958, Lam Vinh Mau che cart is a timeless Saigon by night establishment at 31 Nguyen Thai Binh Street in District 1. Open from 7 p.m. to midnight, the cart offers traditional Teochew treats, including green bean sweet soup and lotus seed sweet soup. To avoid missing out on sweet soup, patrons are advised to visit before 11 p.m.

The cart offers a variety of che options stored in stainless steel pots with separate compartments. Photo by VnExpress/Maison de Bil

The average price for a cup of che is approximately VND20,000 (80 U.S. cents), while mixed che costs VND35,000. One drawback is that the cart is situated by the roadside, requiring diners to be cautious about their vehicles while enjoying the feast of treats.

3. Blood cockle porridge

Located on the Nguyen Tri Phuong Food Street, this spot is perfect for chilly Saigon evenings. The Mekong-delta-style blood cockle porridge is a standout, featuring fresh and firm blood cockles, roasted rice, and a sweet taste thanks to cockle broth.

Customers can order an extra cup of blood cockle to savor along with a portion of porridge. Photo by VnExpress/Vi Yen

Toppings include cilantro and fried shallots, while the porridge is served with pennywort, shredded cabbage, and bean sprouts for personalization.

Though the price is relatively high at VND70,000 ($2.90), the clean ingredients and spacious setting make it worthwhile.

The eatery opens from 10 a.m. to midnight at 207 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, Ward 9, District 5.

4. Nguyen Loi noodle shop

A rare find operating day and night, this noodle shop serving Chinese-style dishes has been a fixture since the 1960s. Nestled in a 4-level house on Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, the shop, lacks a noticeable sign and relies on an old wooden cart to both prepare the food and mark the eatery’s entrance. In the hustle of traffic, it's easily overlooked without careful attention.

A bowl of noodles without wonton is topped with meat slices, ground pork, fried shallots, and lettuces. Photo by VnExpress/Phong Vinh

Famous for its wonton noodles, the dish features wontons with fragrant outer layers, chewy and firm noodles, and well-seasoned, peppery meat.

Priced at a minimum of VND35,000 ($1.44) per bowl, the menu of five dishes is displayed on the wall. However, the owner is flexible, willing to prepare custom dishes upon request for those seeking alternatives to the available options.

The eatery opens all day at 333B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Ward 24, Binh Thanh District.

5. Thien Thien dumplings

Nestled in the Cho Lon (Chinatown) area, Ha Ton Quyen Street is renowned for its Chinese-style dumplings, attracting crowds every early afternoon. Among the restaurants on this street, Thien Thien restaurant spans eight houses and is consistently busy from late afternoon until 2 a.m.

Thien Thien restaurant offers various dumplings, from oyster sauce and fried to noodle-filled options. Photo courtesy of Instagram/ndd.aries

Offering a diverse dumpling menu, including shrimp, vegetarian, mixed, and fried options, it stands out not only for its bustling atmosphere but also for the distinctive sound of the owner ordering food. Thien Thien utilizes a microphone and portable speaker for order clarity due to its spread across multiple houses, starting from number 195.

Dumpling prices at Thien Thien range from VND60,000 to VND80,000 ($2.40 to $3.30) per portion.

The restaurant opens from 2 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.

6. Hao's rib porridge

Situated on Tran Khac Chan Street in District 1, this rib porridge shop is a favorite among early risers and night owls in Saigon.

A bowl of rib porridge is topped with a generous amount of scallions, and often served with fried dough sticks. Photo by VnExpress/Hong Quang

Priced at VND30,000 per bowl, the porridge, cooked fresh daily, distinguishes itself from the Hanoi's version. It features a hearty mix of ingredients including meatballs, pork organs, eggs, squid, and pork skin, all of which combine to form a thick texture.

The eatery opens all day at 109/15, Tran Khac Chan Street, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1.

7. Choi Oi Noodle

Situated near Saigon's Japantown, nestled in the alleys behind Le Thanh Ton and Thai Van Lung streets, this noodle shop caters to Japanese and Korean patrons. With a compact space and a low ceiling, it mirrors the ambiance of traditional noodle shops seen in Japanese films.

Tonkotsu cappuccino ramen features broth with a coffee-like foam, topped with meat slices, boiled eggs, and bamboo shoots. Photo courtesy of choioinoodle

The restaurant offers a variety of options, from classic ramen to inventive choices like Tonkotsu Cappuccino Ramen, in which the broth mimics a cappuccino's white foam, although it doesn't contain coffee. Additionally, spice enthusiasts can indulge in a 10-level spicy ramen. Prices for these dishes range from VND140,000 to VND280,000 ($5.70 to $11.50).

The restaurant opens from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. at 25 Le Thanh Ton Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1.