Vietnam rides into hearts of Irish couple on bicycle

The couple left their home in Tramore on Feb. 1 to cycle around the world, and passed through Europe, Turkey and the deserts of Central Asia.

Their adventure was inspired by Dervla Murphy, an Irishwoman who cycled from Ireland to India in 1965.

Mark describes cycling around the world as "the best way to experience the most and live fully".

Their goal is not to tick off every country, but to explore landscapes and cultures, he says.

Mark and Ellie at the Mong Cai border gate in northern Vietnam. Photo courtesy of Mark and Ellie

To save for the trip, they worked long hours.

Using the Mapy navigation app, they planned flexible routes, adjusting their pace from 32 km a day in Vietnam’s storms to 165 km on Kazakhstan’s flat roads.

Mark says Vietnam has been affordable, with a decent guesthouse only costing around VND300,000 (US$11) per night.

"In Europe, we’d pay ten times more for a guesthouse of much lower quality."

At a homestay on Cai Chien Island in northern Vietnam, they woke at 9 a.m. to find a full karaoke party already underway.

Elderly men sang all morning, some in tune, others not, but everyone with energy.

Invited to sing "Little Boxes", Mark and Ellie got polite applause though they knew they had not been loud enough.

Leaving the parties behind, they continued down the coast, enjoying the cool sea breezes and the warmth of rural hospitality.

"Cycling lets us see the everyday life of Vietnamese people, something package tours can’t offer", Mark says.

They admired the gardens, rice fields and the way people balanced work with family time, reminding them of Ireland.

In small towns, children waved, and once, two boys chased them on motorbikes just to offer them some sugarcane juice.

Mark says: "Moments like these make tough days feel lighter. The kindness of Vietnamese people touches our hearts every day."

Mark and Ellie take a photo with a lady selling banh mi on the street in Vietnam. Photo courtesy of Mark and Ellie

They were moved by the "Vietnamese mothers" they met, small women with big hearts who looked out for strangers. One scolded Mark for wearing shorts in the sun, another gave them rain ponchos and a pho shop owner moved him to a cooler seat.

None of them knew the couple, but all treated them like friends.

Mark believes this comes from genuine concern, a deep-rooted part of Vietnamese warmth and hospitality.

He recalls reading blogs that dismissed the country as boring and skippable.

"I’m so glad I ignored those opinions", he says after nearly a month in the country.

The couple's time in Vietnam has been smooth, apart from Typhoon Bualoi - a storm that affected parts of Asia.

Their only real challenge was that the food was too good that sometimes they ate too much and could barely cycle.

They have loved pho, banh xeo or crispy pancakes and seafood fried rice, though some dipping sauces "tasted like sugar".

Ellie has enjoyed Vietnamese coffee, while Mark drank it mainly for energy. Sometimes, after a cup, they’d race each other down a road, excited to see rice fields, coconut trees and banana plants, all unfamiliar sights in Ireland.

Their three-month visa makes Vietnam a good place to rest after eight months on the road. Simple gestures, a thumbs-up or a farmer’s wave, often lift their spirits.

"The optimism and hospitality here are truly healing", Mark says.

Next, they’ll visit Tuy Hoa City in central Vietnam and stay with a friend for a few weeks.

Mark hopes to add some Vietnamese to the few words he knows like "thank you", "river" and "bridge."

Calling Vietnam a "cyclist’s paradise" for its scenery, food and low costs, he ranks it among their top three destinations and recommends it to other riders.

From here, they will continue through Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia before flying to Canada in early 2026, cycling across the U.S. and returning to Ireland by year end after a 23-country journey.