Ha Giang’s ample bosom nurtures its valleys, rivers

By Ha Thanh   April 3, 2019 | 03:10 am PT
Tam Son Valley has been breast-fed by a heavenly angel whose milk has given it cool climate and delicious produce.
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And the angel’s tears flow as the Mien River, which nurture the rice fields and gardens till today, according to a legend popular among the locals.

Tam Son Valley is located in the northern province of Ha Giang, home to stunning natural scenery.

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Among all its attractions two hills, perfectly shaped like breasts, are known as the Doi Mountain (Pair Mountain) or Co Tien Mountain (Fairy Mountain). They have a circumference of nearly 1,000 meters, an area of about 3.6 hectares.

While the mountains in the valley are natural formations, what makes this pair stand out is the legend that connects organically with the land.

Once upon a time, there was a Hmong young man who was an excellent jaw harp player, a traditional instrument of his people. His music reached the heavens and enchanted a fairy who came down to earth. She forsook heaven, married the musician and they lived happily together.

When she was with child, the Jade God, who rules heaven, came to know of her escape. Livid, he insisted that she returns, and turned a deaf ear to her entreaties. Forced to return, she left her breasts behind to nurture their child. The milk from her breasts is said to create the cool climate that the area enjoys and to make local fruits and vegetable particularly delicious. The fairy’s tears turned into the Mien River.

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In the blessed valley, rice fields paint the land with a variety of greens and yellows, adding charm to the bosom mountains.

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The main street of Tam Son Town at the foot of the mountains is usually quiet and peaceful, with little traffic except the occasional car or motorbike. This is a setting that is fast disappearing in the country.

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Like many other highland districts, Quan Ba has a complex of mountains, rivers and streams. 

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Houses with mud walls that keep the interiors cool in summer and warm in winter still stand in the valley.

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Wooden stilt houses surrounded by flowering plants are still the norm in the valley.

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Life meanders at a slow pace in the villages, but children have fun. A girl runs a tire down a slope.

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Farmers work hard in the fields, growing rice and vegetables and rearing some animals. 

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On 4C Highway leading to Tam Son Valley stands the Cong Troi Quan Ba (Heaven’s Gate). From here, visitors can enjoy the panoramic view of the valley.

In 2010, Doi Mountain (Pair Mountain) was classified as a national scenic monument.

 
 
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