Conquering one of Vietnam's toughest passes

Ma Pi Leng is often described as one of the four most dangerous passes in Vietnam. Soaring over the pass is a mountain 2,000 meters high along whose side is the Hanh Phuc (Happiness) Road connecting Ha Giang Town, Dong Van District and Meo Vac District in Ha Giang Province, around 300 kilometers (186 miles) from Hanoi, close to the China border.

The road was complete in 1965 after 11 years of construction mostly by workers belonging to the H'mong ethnic group. Its name in the H'mong language literally means "bridge of a horse’s nose."

Ma Pi Leng Pass runs 20 kilometers (12.7 miles) and is considered the most dangerous in the northern mountains. It has also been dubbed the "King" of Vietnam’s passes, the Great Wall of Vietnam and the Pyramid of the H'Mong. Negotiating the pass is a tough task even for the most seasoned travelers.

Although the pass is dangerous and scary, you will be rewarded with this lovely view of the turquoise Nho Que River below.

Taking a boat trip down Nho Que River at the foot of Ma Pi Leng Pass is a must-try experience on a tour of Ha Giang. There are 17 ethnic minorities who call the plateau home and live on cultivating rice along the basin of Nho Que River and corn on the rocky mountain slopes.  

Recently the illegal construction of the Panorama Hotel and Restaurant on a bend in the Ma Pi Leng Pass triggered public controversy, with many people saying the building is "not environmentally friendly and partly destroys the landscape."

This outrage has prompted local authorities to rule that parts of the hotel that do not affect the landscape could be retained and converted into a rest stop for visitors without accommodation or other services, and the rest would be razed.

Sometimes you will come across H' Mong people walking along the pass, but occasionally also see inebriated H'Mong men sleeping on the side of the road.

Situated around 300 kilometers (186 miles) from Hanoi, Ha Giang has become an increasingly attractive destination not just because of its spectacular scenery, but also for its narrow, twisting roads and mountain passes that kindle the adventurous spirit.

The tourism boom in recent years has seen many motorbike rental services springing up in the province. Foreign tourists only need to leave their passports to hire a vehicle for around VND150,000 ($6.5) per day.

A H'Mong man with a bundle of dried corn stalks on his back rests briefly while walking back home.