Australian-Vietnamese chef stays connected to homeland through banh mi

"For me, the banh mi evokes my childhood in Cabramatta, when I walked down the street, smelled the fragrant bread and heard the crisp crunch as someone took the first bite," says Nguyen, who was born in Thailand in 1978 to Vietnamese parents and moved to Australia as an infant.

Luke Nguyen with a fresh batch of banh mi that he baked. Photo by Luke Nguyen Cooks

In the early 2000s Nguyen returned to his parents' homeland and explored the iconic food that carries a rich history.

The French brought the baguette to Vietnam in the 1860s, when imported wheat was still expensive, making banh mi a luxury item.

It was only when bakers began mixing in rice flour that it truly became a food for the masses.

By the 1950s, the wave of migrants from North to South marked a turning point. The French-style baguette gradually took on a Vietnamese identity with fillings like pate, pork sausage, cucumber, pickled vegetables, cilantro and fresh chili.

It was this return trip that allowed Nguyen to clearly see the connection between his childhood memories in Cabramatta and Vietnamese cuisine. To him, banh mi is not just street food, it is a symbol of adaptation, the spirit that has sustained the Vietnamese community.

Nguyen, whose Red Lantern that he opened in Australia in 2002 became one of Australia's most renowned Vietnamese restaurants, has made banh mi a big part of his culinary career.

Through his shows "Luke Nguyen’s Vietnam" (2010) and "Luke Nguyen’s Railway Vietnam" (2019), he journeyed across the country, tracing the origins of dozens of unique banh mi variations.

Nguyen appeared on international channels like Discovery Asia, UK TV, and Food Network Asia, broadcast in 160 countries, sharing with global audiences the story of Da Lat's banh mi xiu mai, featuring soft, juicy meatballs infused with garlic and onion, topped with a smooth tomato sauce, perfect for the chilly weather. He took viewers to a famous spicy banh mi shop in Hai Phong, with its small banh mi - about the size of two finger joints - crispy and slathered in rich, creamy pate.

Nguyen is most enamored with banh mi cha ca. The crunchy crust envelops chewy, aromatic fish cakes, mingled with fresh herbs, pickled vegetables, and a harmonious blend of salty, sweet, and fatty flavors, creating a perfectly balanced sensation.

"Every bike takes me back to my childhood in Sydney, where my mother taught me to make pate in our tiny kitchen," he said.

In 2017, Nguyen took Australian Prime Minister Malcolm Turnbull to a roadside stall in Da Nang, where the PM attended the APEC Summit, to enjoy a VND10,000 (US$0.38) banh mi.

Chef Luke Nguyen (R) leads Malcolm Turnbull, former Australian Prime Minister, to buy a VND10,000 banh mi in Da Nang. Photo by Luke Nguyen

On Oct. 25, he continued telling the story of Vietnamese cuisine through a giant number "25" formed from 600 loaves of bread, claiming a Guinness World Record.

Taking place at the RMIT University Vietnam campus in Ho Chi Minh City, the event aims to raise funds for KOTO's Dream School - a free vocational training program for disadvantaged youth, ethnic minorities, and those in remote areas.

Your contribution will support KOTO's Dream School, empowering disadvantaged youth, ethnic minorities, and those from remote areas to seize opportunities and build brighter futures.

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